If you had asked me 10 years ago if I could ever write an article about Gastronomy and the Quepos/Manuel Antonio area, I would have laughed, as it seems like the epitome of an oxymoron. (Yes, got two daughters in 5th and 8th grade, so I am empowered to use some of those cool grammatical terms that will soon be forgotten again. Not too long ago, during some fortunate time traveling in Europe with my family, I wrote a bit about the simplicity of Costa Rican quisine and its allure in a overly fabricated world of gourmet, quinoa and pomegranate infused, organic durian sauces and just how amazing it was to see how so many visitors here fall in love with rice, beans, plantains and some simple fish or chicken. I hope and believe that the allure of this simplicity will never go away, as a back-to-the-basics-of-life mentality is essentially one of the reasons that Costa Rica is so amazing and life here so PURA VIDA.
That being said, this weekend, as I labored over what to cook for the family, an intrinsic “pereza” or laziness for the post-cooking clean up had me examining with my wife and kids what we could do for dinner. As most families, the first instinct is to go with the usual favorites. Easy, known, and reliable. After all, those are damn good chicken fingers, and you just can’t screw up a piece of fresh dorado and white rice that badly! But.. wait.. perhaps it's the three margaritas we just drank or the meltdown our teenage or near-teenage kids are having.. We are feeling adventurous and decide to revisit the options in this small town. Having lived here for more than 20 years, you normally just assume you know all the ins and outs of town, but that familiarity also leads to a bit of laziness and conformity and just like in a relationship you have to continually work to grow, learn and fall in love over and over again with your partner, staying in love with your community requires some effort and dating all over again.
So off we go....and when I stopped to think about the options, I was surprised and inspired to be able to write about the growth and birth of a cool gastro scene here in the area.
Chocolat - Caffè & Patisserie
It all started with a breakfast selection and a visit to Chocolat Café in downtown Quepos. While I can’t talk badly about our beloved Musmanni (the national bakery of CR), ultimately, after a few weeks in Europe and a weekend in Santa Teresa shoving my face full of insanely good baked goods, we have never had the kind of option here in the area. Chocolat is the REAL DEAL. It did take me 4 hours to recover from the 3 pan au chocolate, two almond cakes, and 4 cookies I shoved down with a few killer coffees, but it was worth both the guilty conscience and the tire around my gut from overeating. RIDICULOUSLY good.
Z Gastro Bar
Once I managed to get over breakfast, we started to look at what we could do differently for lunch... While working at the marina, I have been a constant and consistent client at the Z Gasto Bar, where Dean Paquette, his wife Anne Michelle, and team always put out new and creative killer cuisine. We had not yet been to their newest incarnation of the Z line, the Z poolside Bar and Grill. Located at the Hotel Byblos poolside location, they have done an extensive remodel of the space and bring the same gourmet style, cool vibe, impeccable service, and value that have defined their restaurant since they first opened. Since I was still recovering partially from my carb overload at Chocolate, I went light with a selection of ceviches and their tuna carpaccio, which was ridiculously good. Super presentations and also very well priced in a relaxed environment, which works for families, couples, or anyone looking for something unique and new.
Falafel Bar
While not a new spot in town, we can’t discuss our growing gastro scene here without talking about one of our favorites, but far from regular spots. FALAFEL BAR. Our friends Mihal and Izhar from Israel have been an amazing part of our community for years, but their new spot is just taking over the town and all its visitors. The bohemian vibe, so unique to their restaurant, can’t be beat and is just a place you want to hang out, chat with the mix of locals, tourists, young, and old visiting the area. The simple, but authentic Middle Eastern cuisine is fresh and delicious. I can’t stop eating the shwarma plate, but everything is insane, from their homemade falafel, shafshuka, or schnitzel for the kids. They are even making their own tahini on site, thanks to Izhar, the engineer's new invention, which you can watch in action as you order and customize your plate at the open salad bar.
I'll save another blog to discuss the insane cuisine at Emilios Cafe, Cuba Libre, the new Thai food spot Samui, our timeless favorite Agua Azul, or the killer options at the Love Shack and Juice bar downtown. What is abundantly clear is that Quepos/Manuel Antonio is definitely a spot that our beloved and late Anthony Bourdain could have come, enjoyed, and revered.