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Stairway to the Southern Zone

Todd Cutter

So I am the first to admit, I am not a camper. I am not a scratch the sticks together to make fire type of guy. The calls for let's go camping out in the wilderness only motivate me to go to the office. So, for my wedding anniversary this year, at first glance, a trip to a small mountain village for peace and quiet would not sound like an idealistic way to celebrate. However, this getaway was far from roughing it, and worth detailing as even with a background in tourism and real estate, this particular destination at the doorsteps of the southern zone, left me speechless.

Of course, my decision to go was prefaced with some previous knowledge of our destination, Hotel Hacienda Altagracia. Located on 350 hectares just outside of the southern zone town of Perez Zeledon, and about one hour to Dominical, the hotel proclaims a true hacienda feel and an authentic Costa Rican experience. While part of that is true, I am not sure the level of luxury and pampering found here is an authentic Costa Rican experience, but certainly one that all Costa Ricans, and foreigners alike, could get used to! After about a 3 hour drive over what is ominously called the Cerro de la Muerte, it is impossible not to change mental gears as the hustle bustle of the city quickly turns to the look, feel, and smells of the country lifestyle...as you take the final turn through the small and truly authentic "pueblo" of Cajon, passed the soccer field and church, you can make out the private villas, or casitas as they are known on site, of the Hotel Hacienda Altagracia. Upon entering the property, you pass by the horse stables and the 20-acre orchard where the hotel grows much of the fresh fruits, herbs, vegetables, and decorative flowers served and found throughout the property.

When we pulled up to the reception, our bags and car keys were taken, and we were seated in a lavish mountain lodge to be guided through the check-in process. The pampering started right away with a typical Costa Rican mountain beverage, agua de sapo (literally translated toad's water), and a cool towel with natural herb scents. After a cordial reception, we were put into golf carts with our bags to be taken on a quick tour of the property and its amenities, before being taken to our casita. The grounds include multiple restaurants, a family pool, an adults-only pool featuring a stunning infinity edge pool overlooking the mountains and valley below, as well as a sports bar, meeting rooms, and a state-of-the-art spa and fitness area. The rooms are spacious to say the least, and boast high-end design, construction, and finishes throughout, from handcrafted wood ceilings, marble-lined floors in the bathroom, top-of-the-line Kohler accessories, electronic blinds for extreme privacy, an extremely comfortable sofa in the living area, and a bed/linens that raise the bar for a restful night's sleep.

The views are stunning, but with only one night at the hotel, we hit the ground running and spent the first hour at the adults-only pool sipping pineapple jalapeno margaritas (I found the flavor as cool as the novelty) and strawberry daquiris.... It is one of the few destination hotels in the world where the rain is welcome and part of the experience. As we watched the ominous black clouds approach, the waiter kindly offered to call us a golf cart (covered on all 4 sides) to take us up to the spa, where he advised us there was an indoor pool and we could order lunch...after a short drive in the cart to the upper most part of the property, we walked into a jaw dropping spa facility, that culiminated with a resort size indoor pool, multiple jacuzzis, accented with floor to ceiling glass overlooking the valley, and impressive 3 story atrium ceiling...when the rain came, the sound echoed like a hurricane through the building, forcing conversation to a hault and relaxation to begin. We turned on the jet-powered fountains in the pool, which create their own deep tissue massage (not for the light-hearted, or light in weight either, as they will blow you over)....a gourmet lunch by the pool, and as the rain slowed, we made our way back to the adults pool for drinks and then to check out the sports bar for happy hour...

Walking into the sports bar was no less impressive than the rest of the experience, entering an impeccably detailed man cave, with gorgeous artwork, hardwoods, and leather couches....to the right, is the sports bar with multiple tv's central bar, dual pool tables, and about a dozen hand carved wood tables, and leather chairs for an old school club feel that is hard to find these days. On the other side of the lounge is an executive's dream, a conference room for about 16 people, and another private lounge...the lower level boasts a state-of-the-art dance club/disco, apparently used only for private events, and bathrooms that appear to be designed for you to stay there and not return to your rooms.

Dinner that night at the principal restaurant was no less impressive, as you are greeted by an all-glass, open kitchen with state-of-the-art equipment and friendly service....the menu is varied, but truly inspired by the farm-to-table mentality, leaving all of us completely satiated...

Sunday, we enjoyed a typical Costa Rican breakfast and mountain coffee on the deck overlooking the southern mountains and the Hacienda below.

It is rare to find the ideal combination of service, location, experience, and luxury in one place, but Hacienda Altagracia delivers on all of the above, and I hope to be back soon.

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